Every morning, the three sisters Julia, Yulissa and Kenya climb into their dugout in order to row to school. They live on the east coast of Nicaragua, one of the world’s poorest countries, and the youngest of them has just turned five; the oldest is nine. They row across the Rio Escondido. Not only is it one of the largest rivers in the country, it is simultaneously one of the most dangerous routes to school. While they have to watch out for snakes lurking in the trees over the river, the three sisters also struggle against the current and must ensure the dugout does not fill up with water - because it has multiples holes and could sink at any minute.
Other classmates do not necessarily have it easier, because they live far from the river, and their journey to school takes them through the deep jungle. One of these classmates is 11-year-old Greyven. His daily trip di lui takes him through the so-called 'snake field', in which coral snakes and the infamous boa constrictor reside. On the way to school, the rain drives the snakes from the empty coconuts on the ground; on the way back the afternoon heat, which is over 35 degrees, means that they are lively and belligerent.
Narrator: We all know it. Walked it every day. But none of them were like these. The world’s most dangerous ways to school. Freezing, climbing for hours, bailing non-stop. All for the chance of a better life. Spectacular and sometimes simply beautiful, the world’s most dangerous ways to school. The jungle in eastern Nicaragua and its lifeline, the mighty Rio Escondido. It is a wild and secluded region, with no roads or trains connecting it to the rest of the country.
Far away from the cities, the jungle is filled with a multitude of animal species. It is also, one of the world’s wettest places, with 10 months of rainy season each year. Whoever wants to go to school here must travel a long way, a daily adventure. It is one of the most dangerous ways to school in the world but the children have only one goal, to learn for a better life. Nothing can stop these students, to realize their dream they are willing to take on all sorts of dangers. Five o’clock in the morning, shortly after sunrise in San Nicolas, one of the banks of the Rio Escondido lies a small settlement in a jungle clearing. Her life is simple, there is neither running water nor electricity.
Only two families live in San Nicolas. One of them is the Gonzalez-Florez family. With the first rays of sunlight, life begins in the small wooden shack. Beneath the mosquito net something stirs. Child: Come on its time to get up.
Narrator: A long, exhausting and dangerous day lies ahead for the children, but the anticipation of school sends the three Florez sisters leaping happily out of their bed. Child: I’m so hungry. Narrator: But the girls cannot think of breakfast yet. The family is poor, as is 70% of Nicaraguas rural population.
First, a quick sponge-bath, as every morning a lot of work awaits the children. Before they can eat anything themselves they must feed the families most valuable assets, the animals. And as generations before, their mother Dona Julia really needs her daughters help. Julia Junior is seven years old. The baby, Julissa, called Julie, is five.
Kenya, the big sister, is nine years old. Before all three can go on their dangerous journey to school over the Rio Escondido, they must first do an hour and a half of household chores. Despite the work, they do not forget how to be children. Kenya: You have to take more water. Aaah, that’s so cold!
Narrator: Their mother prepares breakfast. The children will need it. As usual, there is possoya, a mixture of water, corn and sugar and a piece of bread. Not much, considering the hardships that lie ahead. It’s very important that the girls learn to read so that they can have a better future. When they grow up I want them to become doctors or teachers. They should be able to become anything they want to.
Narrator: The three sisters are not the only children in the jungle who must do so much every day in the hopes of a better life. Their classmate Craven Lopez lives one kilometer further inland. His family is not quite as poor. Since the 11 year old Craven doesn’t have to work before school, he’s only just gotten up. His mother Dona Jamie, has already prepared his breakfast. Since the family lives too far from the river, his way to school takes him through the countryside. The greatest threat facing Craven on his journey slithers along the ground and in the trees. I’m very afraid of the snakes on the way to school. But I know that I need to learn to read so that I can make something out of myself.
Narrator: Three kilometers of jungle lie before him. Not a very long way, but his constant fear of snakes and other dangerous animals is with the boy at every turn.
Goodbye mom.
Bye take care!
Narrator: Regardless of the risks, being allowed to go to school is a privilege in this part of Nicaragua. Very few children get the chance. Cravens classmates are almost ready to go. While their mother is still doing Julissas hair, the two older sisters, crack open coconuts, food for the pigs. They use every free minute to work. At about half past six they get going. The girls don’t know the time because the family
has no clock.
Narrator: An hour remains until the lessons officially begin for Julissa, Julia and Kenya. Time enough as long as there are no delays. They must row almost two miles along the river to reach the school. But their crafts best days are long past. The old dugout canoe is falling apart and water seeps through dozens of holes. In order to keep their canoe seaworthy the girls must bail the water out of the dugout
before every trip. This takes at least 15 minutes. It is almost always Kenya who performs this task.
She is used to taking responsibility for her younger sisters. Meanwhile, their classmate Craven has completed the first part of his hike. In the cleared forest glades he is making good progress. His next phase, the dense jungle, is already in sight. Suddenly, as so often before on his way to school, an unexpected obstacle. A herd of buffalo blocks the entrance to the jungle. Although the animals are not aggressive if one gets too close, they may feel threatened and attack. Craven: If I bother them, they might run me over.
Narrator: Craven decides not to take the risk and goes around the herd. Only very rarely does he meet other people on his way. The east of the country is sparsely populated. Just one tenth of the 5.7 million Nicaraguans live here on half of the country’s land mass. After a quarter of an hours detour, Craven reaches the edge of the jungle. From now on he has to really concentrate, one false step can have serious consequences. Giant tropical ants, poison dart frogs, curly haired tarantulas
The jungle is home to countless poisonous animals. I’ve always been a bit afraid when going into the jungle.
Narrator: And rightly so. The jungles poisonous inhabitants are masters of camouflage. By the time one discovers them, it’s often too late. Craven hurries to get through this part of the forest as swiftly as possible. On the river bank the sisters dugout is finally ready to go.
Julie: Man, this is hard.
Kenya, move it, hop in.
It’s okay I have to get the paddle first.
Narrator: The five meter long dugout weighs 200 kilograms far more than all three girls together. To get it in motion is a tour-de-force. Only three quarters of an hour before classes begin. High time to get going. The first part of their river voyage takes them through a dense mangrove swamp. A seemingly endless maze of roots and branches. There is no nearby shore to swim to should their canoe capsize.
And five year old Julissa cannot swim. Although they have just set off, water is already swamping the boat. At a widening of the channel, the sisters must turn the cumbersome dugout. Kenya the oldest now sits in the back.
From there she can steer the canoe while keeping an eye on her two younger sisters. The three girls are careful not to touch any drooping plants. For them too, venomous animals are a constant danger. Snakes or spiders could always fall from the branches and into their boat. But seven year old Julia is more concerned about the flow of brown river water into the canoe. I’m often afraid that we might drown.
Narrator: Little Julissa also has to help. Her job, if too much water enters the canoe, to bail it out along the way. Only as a trio is the trip in the rickety dugout even possible for the sisters. If one of the girls is sick, all three must stay at home. And school is canceled for that day. It’s not getting any less.
Narrator: After about 20 minutes in the shadows they reach the end of the mangroves. The children steer their canoe into the main branch of the Rio Escondido. The girls have completed almost half of their way to school. But now, they have the rivers current to contend with. Seven o’clock, thirty minutes until the first lesson. Craven has almost made it out of the thicket. Slowly the forest thins. The 11 year old is in fourth grade. He has come a long way. Children in the rural areas of Nicaragua go to school for a maximum of four years, if they ever go to school at all. Craven has completed two thirds of his dangerous journey to school. Finally out of there and I haven’t seen any snakes yet. Narrator: But Craven can only take a short breather. Before him lies that part of his daily route he fears most, the snake field. He has encountered dangerous reptiles here on many occasions. The snakes live under the coconuts.
Narrator: But there is no avoiding it. In less than half an hour classes start. If Craven wants to get to school at all he must cross the snake field. A few kilometers away, Cravens mother is cooking with her relatives. Coconut oil, the livelihood of the family. 25 year old Jamie Lopez is as always worried about her first born on his way to school. I don’t really want him to go to school, because we do not have a boat. imp afraid that a snake will bite him while he is out there all alone. He’s still so small. And the route overland is much longer than by water.
Narrator: Although crossing the river is the shortest way to school, it is not by any means less dangerous. But the river is kind to the girls today. The three Florez sisters are making good progress with the current. Only one mile left. After three quarters of an hour on the water, the main branch of the Rio Escondido is almost behind them. And luckily the girls have not yet encountered any of the dangerous river dwellers. What scares me the most are the alligators that live here. They want to eat me.
Narrator: But now that their way to school is almost behind them, anticipation slowly gains the upper hand. Each sister is excited for a different reason I like to go to school because I can see my friends there. Our teacher Mrs. Miller is very nice and pays attention to me. I’m looking forward to school because it’s fun to learn.
Narrator: The children’s destination sits on a hill above the river in the village of San Mariano. Around 100 people live here, almost all of them belong to one large family. School supplies for one year cost approximately 41 dollars, too much for most families. Only about a dozen children attend the school.
All the students, except for Kenya, Julia, Julissa and Craven live in the village. Their teacher Mrs. Miller, knows the difficulties of the four jungle students well. One day they come to class, and the next day they do not. But I know that they always try, so I’m satisfied.
At least they learn something. The fact that the girls arrive with wet books, notebooks and clothes here is normal. The boy however, goes through the countryside where there are many snakes, some poisonous.
Narrator: The coral snake is one of the most poisonous snakes of all. A red and black striped snake which is very common in east Nicaragua. Craven hopes to get to school today without meeting one of them. It’s very common for the reptiles to come out after the rain. The coconuts in which the snakes live fill up with water. Then they come out and crawl around everywhere, on the path and the coconut clusters. They hang from the tree trunks as well. They wind themselves up to the top and stay wrapped around the trunk.
Narrator: So Craven always looks at the sky anxiously. He doesn’t want to stay longer than necessary. The weather appears to have worsened. The same applies to his classmates on the water. It’s almost seven thirty. Gradually their early start, the morning chores and the strenuous paddling are taking their toll. The girls are tired, but their goal is in sight. Now, they only have one small lake to cross. But, in the middle of the lake, as so often before, they get caught in one of the daily downpours. Additional water from above, now mingles with the water entering their canoe from below. Because the region is so close to the equator, the daily rain showers can be very intense.
Rainfall of 6000 liters per square meter per year is standard. At home, three kilometers away, the girl’s mother Dona Julia is on her way to work in the fields. She wants to plant new banana plants. Every day at work, the 35 year old woman often thinks about her three young daughters. Dona Julia doesn’t know where on their dangerous journey to school the kids now are, or how they’re doing. This constant uncertainty is her biggest problem. Sometimes they come home very late. And I always am afraid then
that something has happened to them on the river. If they are traveling by boat, I’m always afraid that Julissa will fall into the water. She cannot swim yet. On the river, something could easily happen to the little one.
Narrator: Even though she worries daily about her daughters, she knows how important school is for the girls. Dona Julia herself, can neither read nor write. Back to the girls. The weather has thankfully improved. After rowing three kilometers for over an hour they finally reach the shore of San Mariano.
Mooring the massive dugout requires the two older girls to muster all their strength. Julia and Kenya must pull the canoe as far as they can up the muddy bank, so if the water rises during class it won’t drift away. Julie: Go on, you almost have it.
Narrator: The three girls share a school bag. Carrying it is a privilege reserved for the eldest.
Kenya: But just look at your pants.
Narrator: Julissa, Julia and Kenya are indeed dirty but have arrived safely, despite all the perils. Their classmate Craven has also made it to San Mariano unscathed. Classes begin officially at 7.30, but without a clock the four children simply leave home when they’re ready. Often they arrive late for school. Sometimes, they’re too early.
Narrator: On most days, Mrs. Miller waits to start class until the children from the jungle have made it to school. Today they start a good quarter of an hour late and as usual, with the Lord’s Prayer. Nicaragua is strictly Catholic.
Narrator: In the class there are students between four to 14 years of age. It’s a challenge offering everyone the appropriate learning material for his or her level. But the teacher has a system. Second grade, prevention, pre-ven-tion. Third, fourth and fifth grade, to serve. Serve.
Narrator: Despite the grueling journey to school the older ones work hard to follow the lessons. For little Julissa, suddenly having to sit still is very difficult. When they arrive at school, because of the fatigue, they cannot focus well. This gradually gets better and better because they like to learn. But I must constantly remind them to concentrate on the board so they can retain the lesson.
Narrator: With her simple reading lessons, the teacher of this small village school is fighting against a great national problem. A quarter of the adults in Nicaragua cannot read. The country has one of the highest illiteracy rates in Latin America. Then it’s time for what probably all school children in the world love the most. The children get their lunch in a small hut in the village. Since their meager breakfast, the students have had nothing to eat or drink. They can’t wait for the hot meal.
Every day a different mother from the village prepares the meal. There’s almost always gallon pinto, fried rice with black beans, tortillas and lemonade. A feast for the children.
Are you hungry?
Kenya take this from me.
But I want to carry the tortillas.
Narrator: The government pays for the ingredients for lunch. The zero hunger program ensures that all school children in the country get to eat at least one meal a day. Although Nicaragua is considered a developing country malnutrition has almost ceased to be a problem. A few hours at school are a welcome change from the poor life in the forest. Here, the children have time to play and just for once everything revolves around them.
After the break, math is on the program. Six mangoes minus two mangoes make four mangoes. The students are enthusiastic and everyone wants to come up to the board. Meanwhile its one o’clock.
After five hours, classes are over for the day.
Narrator: The end of the school day is always a sad moment for Kenya. In school I have many friends,
but when I am back at home they are far away.
That makes me sad.
Narrator: The Florez sisters are on their way back to their dugout. The best part of the day is over for them. Because the way home not only takes longer, it will also take a lot of energy. But before they get back on the river the girls have to bail the dugout for it has filled up again during class. Cravens way home is also somewhat delayed. Since he is the only family member who comes here regularly he must take care of his mother’s shopping in the village store of San Mariano. The small shop is the only one within 20 kilometers.
Narrator: Most of what they need to live, the locals produce themselves. In the village shop there are important things like medicines, toiletries and a few luxury items such as flashlights, batteries or candy.
Shopkeeper: What else?
Narrator: 170 Cordoba oro, or about six dollars. A lot of money for the boy’s family. A normal worker makes about a dollar 60 a day. Now Craven can head back home. He must go to his grandmother’s house where his mother awaits him with the rest of the family. This is the time of day when the afternoon heats sets in. As workers now flee from the sun to seek shelter in the village, the student must begin his hour and a half long walk. Craven would also like to hide in the sun. but I have to go to my grandmother’s house.
Narrator: Now the student must be even more cautious of snakes. In the afternoon heat, cold blooded reptiles become more active. The girls on the Rio Escondido have to deal with new dangers and difficulties. The way home takes them upriver. Now in their 200 kilogram dugout, the sisters must paddle against the current. Added to that, the weather seems to be conspiring against them. Its very windy today and therefore the current is very strong, the boat seems to be going nowhere.
Narrator: They have made it just half way and the trials of the day have already sapped their strength. On land, their classmate Craven struggles with temperatures over 35 degrees Celsius and extremely high humidity. A typical afternoon in eastern Nicaragua where it is hot all year round with an average humidity of 80%. Like the girls, he has only made it halfway home. Craven must hurry, work awaits him at his destination. As soon as he arrives, he must help his family cook the coconut oil. But Craven is thirsty and needs a break. Clean drinking water is a rarity outside of the big towns. About 30% of people in the rural areas of Nicaragua have no access to clean water. Luckily Craven does. He’s not alone under the trees shade for long. A late arriving worker also seeks shelter from the sun. Its Don Pedro, who Craven knows from the village.
Narrator: Although Craven has luckily never been bitten. His fear of poisonous snakes runs deep. Since no one here possesses any antidote and the nearest doctor is two hours away by boat, a snake bite could be fatal. He quickly continues on his way. A few kilometers away, Kenya, Julissa and Julia have finally made it to the mangroves after paddling for over an hour. Despite the fatigue and exertion, Kenya takes good care of her little sisters. She keeps an especially sharp eye on Julissa who can’t swim.
Narrator: Because of the strong current on the main channel of the river they are late. Their mother will already be concerned. The girls gather their last strength once again. All three help to get the heavy canoe through the final meters home. Then it is finally in sight, the familiar jetty. Other children who do not go to school are playing in the water. Unlike the Florez sisters, they have already done their household chores and so have time to play. But the three students are much too tired to join in the fun. It’s after three o’clock when the girls moor the dugout to the dock. For more than 10 hours now, they have been hard at work.
Julissa, Julia and Kenya just want to go home to their mother. The children are lucky they weren’t caught in a downpour. During the rainy season, especially in the afternoon, showers are always to be expected. One kilometer further inland, their classmate Craven drags himself along the last leg of his journey home. The oppressive, humid afternoon heat and the fatigues of the day have been hard on the boy.
Narrator: They earn their livelihood with coconut oil which the entire family cooks together. They get seven and a half dollars for each five liter canister of oil, that means three hours’ work for all five of them. For today, Craven has survived his dangerous journey to and from school and can now be with his family. So the work doesn’t bother him. As for the girls, their small village of San Nicolas is finally within reach. So close to home little Julie is elated. Her big sisters too can hardly wait to see their mother.
Julissa, Julia and Kenya are home at last. Once again, the children have overcome their journey to school. Their mother Dona Julia is already preparing dinner in the kitchen. Tonight there will be smoked meat. The girls must strengthen themselves after all that physical exertion. Each of the sisters wants to be the first to hug their mother. The relief is obvious for the whole family. A dangerous and long day now lies behind the children. But nine year old Kenya knows exactly why
she puts herself through it every day.
Narrator: Today, she has come one step closer to her dream. Evening falls swiftly over the families hut.
So close to the equator, the sun sets shortly after five o’clock in the afternoon. At twilight, the exhausted girls crawl into bed. Now it’s time for the three sisters to rest.
Tomorrow is a new day. One that will bring them new adventures and take lots of energy. On the Rio Escondido in eastern Nicaragua on one of the world’s most dangerous ways to school.
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