The Mennonites embrace isolation, which in their eyes helps protect them from the temptations of the modern world. At first glance, time seems to have stood still in the Mennonite colony in Belize, where people still travel by horse-drawn carriage and do without conveniences such as televisions and electricity. They still speak an old form of the German dialect Plattdeutsch. But modern life is slowly making inroads in Little Belize. Wilhelm, the community’s former doctor, was expelled for owning a mobile phone. Fearing that their community was being tainted, some more traditional members decided to found a new colony in a remote jungle in Peru, where they hope to live according to old customs and religious beliefs. For the first time ever, a camera team was granted access to one of Central and South America’s traditional Mennonite colonies.
Since his expulsion, Wilhelm has been shunned by the community. These days, he sells tires an hour’s drive from home. He decided to found a new non-conformist congregation within the conservative community. Mennonites behind the wheel of pick-up trucks! A surprising sight. They belong to the dozens of families that now attend the new church. From all appearances, these believers still seem to abide by the traditional Mennonite codes of conduct.
But on closer inspection, there are undeniable signs of change. Even from the pulpit, the sermon is read from a smartphone. There’s no Bible to be seen. The Gospel of Matthew: The eleven disciples went to Galilee, to the mountain where Jesus had sent them. When they saw him, they worshipped him - but some doubted. Wilhelm instigated the construction of the new church. So, cell phones are allowed here?
Oh yeah, they are allowed. Vehicles are allowed, music is allowed; we are practicing music. Yeah, that’s all allowed. Only what is not allowed is drinking, and all that the Bible says is wrong. This development troubles more traditional Mennonites. They believe that souls are being lost. Abram is one of those traditionalists. He’s joining several other families who’ve decided to leave Belize to set up a new colony in Peru: one that’s more loyal to the Old Order. We will build a more traditional community so that they will be more, more, more, I don’t know exactly how to explain but the people, more conservative, more people together.
Abram, a farmer, will embark on the new adventure with his wife and 7 children. Even though he’s invested a lot in his life here in Little Belize. So, this is the house what I had built at the first point. So, now I want to leave it, so other people can use it now, if they want to change and have a better one. They can have a new one. So, that’s how I am thinking now. Now I want to sell it with everything, and the land. For Abram, Peru represents the promise of an even better life. The first point is, there, it sounds like the soil and everything, Really? Yes, I can’t wait!
We’ll see who gets on the plane first!
I don’t want to be first! The time has come for the family to go. Yeah, it’s a big movement. The biggest one that I ever had in my life. Climb in, boys!
Abram’s parents want to see them off. It’s not easy for his mother. This is the first time one of her children has left the colony. Don’t worry, everything’s going to be fine. It’s all under control. I’m still anxious. I understand.
Goodbye, and safe journey.
Isaak, will you visit us?
Maybe in April! 3 hours later, they arrive at the airport in Belize City. They’re the first of the group to get there. For Abram, this is when the adventure truly begins. This is the first time that I am taking the plane. That’s why I am telling my children, now I am waiting 43 years, I want to go with the plane.
So, now my children are happy, they can go with me together. Long time, when I see a jet in the air, Oh, when I will go, when I will go?
It’s going to be great! The rest of the group have also arrived. 7 families, 53 people in total. They’ve all bought one-way tickets. No one plans to return. It’s time to say goodbye.
Abram’s parents came to the airport to make the most of the last few moments with the family. There are no hugs or kisses; a simple handshake suffices. Everyone appears calm and composed. But Abram’s mother can’t quite hold back her tears. She doesn’t know if she’ll ever see her son or grandchildren again. They’re taking a huge leap into the unknown. The challenges begin with the escalator. Are you scared?
They look, some people know we think about traveling, but not so in a group. So many in a group and so many baggage. The Mennonites take their 3rd and final flight. This one’s to Pucallpa, a town northeast of Lima, that’s close to the Amazon rainforest. They’ve travelled nearly 3500km. Upon arrival, a few mototaxis are waiting. The Mennonites are something of an attraction here, too. There’s room over here!
With the largest port in the region, Pucallpa is the gateway to the Amazon. The city has around 200,000 inhabitants. Vendors from the surrounding villages come here to sell their goods. Abram is delighted. I’m here, and surprised! It looks happy, beautiful. Yeah!
Oh, they look nice. It looks like there is lots of movement. It’s big here, huh?
Looks like lots of movement. Right here I think, here we can work how we like to. Because I see the people moving and lots and lots of people, so it will be a big, big difference than in Belize. Because Belize is so poor, and little bit of people, everything’s tight. The fast boats leave from there.
Abram has no time to lose. He left Belize with the bare minimum, so he needs to buy a few supplies before heading into the rainforest. But first he has to change money. José, come and count the dollars! This is Abram’s entire savings. 30 years of work. He’s investing it all in his future. We sell horses and cows and whatever, what we could sell in the auction sale. So, then I got the money and then I change it for buying things.
More land, or open my land. Abram has a total of $18,000 — not much to start a new life. That’s why the group buys things in bulk, to save money. First thing on the list: mattresses. We are all together because above 10, then they have a different price. That’s why we are all together, going and buying things. This one is hard. It would be like sleeping on the ground!
The day is drawing to an end in Pucallpa, but Abram’s work has just begun. Tomorrow he will take an exploratory expedition to the new colony. Apples, apples! Vitamins, vitamins! Come and get your apples! Abram has reserved a seat on the first boat to Tierra Blanca, the last village before the colony.
Johann, another member of the group, is accompanying him. The trip will take two days on the Ucayali River, a tributary of the Amazon. I don’t have any idea. I come and look, and I see what happens and what’s going on. So, I’m wondering, everything. So, it looks all different to what I know before in Belize, so everything is different.
But, it’s interesting. A few hours later, there are no more buildings in sight. Nothing but long stretches of forest. But that doesn’t trouble Abram. On the contrary?
That’s what I am looking for. That’s what I like. When there is green bush, tall bush, high bush, that’s what I like. That’s what I look for. Why?
Because that looks like the soil is strong, and they have power. So, they can grow vegetables, corn, or anything like what we grow on the farm. After 48 hours on the boat, Abram has nearly reached his personal paradise. We’re almost there. Yes, not far now. How much longer? About half an hour. But there’s more to come. Abram and Johann take another, much smaller boat. It’s the only way to reach their new home, deep in the heart of the Amazon. Hardly anyone traverses the river at this point. And once they touch land, it’s still not over. They’ve got another 90 minutes along a muddy, bumpy road. You hear that?
Yeah, it’s going clack, clack, clack. At one point, Johann and Abram have to get out and push! Still, nothing can dampen Abram’s enthusiasm. The road is very difficult!
Yes, it’s difficult, but it could change. We could change it. This is the first time, but we have to work. That’s what we want. We want to work!
That’s why we want to come here. You have to do everything!
Yes, everything. We have to start anew!
Starting from zero to grow. After two hours, the first house comes into view. It was built by the 6 Mennonite families who settled here a year ago.
We finally found you!
Luckily we could take the road, otherwise we’d have had to walk. That’s nothing compared to how it was when we came with all our luggage!
There are around 50 Mennonites living here, all on their own, in the middle of the jungle. Without electricity or running water. There’s a lot to be done. Abram and his family will have to live in tents before they are able to build a house of their own. When will it be finished?
He says one week he has worked, and so maybe two, three days more and then he will have this house ready. Just two weeks to build a house! Mennonites are seasoned carpenters. And they know how to make the most of what they’ve got. The people in Belize, a lot of times they say, how could it happen that we people don’t go to school, and we do lots of different things than they do? And how could it be?
We say, we work on the farm and practice on the farm. We don’t go to school; we go to school on the farm. A little deeper in the forest, Abram will finally see his own plot of land for the first time. He’s waited a year for this moment. What is this?
This is my piece of land here. So, this is how we first open. This is the bush. And so right now we will go inside and there I could show you how I will make my house. It’s the land I’ve always dreamed of!
Abram’s first instinct is to reach down and grab a handful of soil. To plant carrots and all the vegetables, for this soil will be very, very good. On one side it will be the house, and on the other side there will be a shelter. The vegetables will be here in front, and the front yard. So, when people come, and they see ‘Oh, okay, right here is a pretty yard, pretty vegetables.’ Oh okay, happy today!
This is where he wants to create a new Mennonite community based on Old Order traditions. Like, here we will be more isolated and more helpful, more love and everything. It will be more together people living. In a year’s time, over 40 families will be at home here, around 300 people in all. The Amazon - it may be the last refuge for the Mennonites.
A Mennonite family of 10-sleeping in a box trailer along the way!